Friday, May 13, 2016

Mill Creek, Orick (Redwood NP) and Lake Selmac Horse Camps, California /Oregon

Yipeee!...first camping trip of the season, and it was a good one. Last fall I did a little trip over to California and did some hiking and exploring in and around the Redwoods.While I was there I figured out where some of the horse trails were, and consequently made a plan to return in the spring with my pony.

Yes, she is a small horse but this is a BIG tree...Redwood National Park.

I watched the weather for a long enough stretch of good/dry days, and set off on my journey on the 6th of May heading to Orick CA. It's a pretty long drive, and so I was happy to get to Crescent City where I stopped to do a ride on the Mill Creek Horse Trail. This trailhead is just a few miles from town and has lots of room for parking.

The Mill Creek Horse Trail parking area.


This is a 10 mile loop and can be made a tiny bit longer by crossing Mill Creek on another small loop, crossing back over the creek once again, and continuing on the rest of the main trail, however at this time of the year one of the creek crossings is closed due to salmon spawning, so I skipped that section.

The roots of a fallen Redwood on the Mill Creek Horse Trail.

Back in the day they allowed logging in this area, so unfortunately there are some large stumps interspersed among the rest of the trees that are still standing.

There are quite a few hitching rails along the way as well as a spot with picnic tables. The trails are well marked, cleared, and easy to navigate.

Riding on the Mill Creek Horse Trail.

On the Mill Creek Horse Trail.

Picnic area on the Mill Creek Horse Trail.

After my ride I continued the rest of my drive over to the Orick Rodeo Grounds where they have a horse camp. I had called ahead to make a reservation, there is no reservation fee, they just want to know you are coming. Being so early in the season it was not busy, in fact I was only the second camper they had seen this year. This will change come summer, since millions of tourists flock to this area. In order to make the reservation you have to call the Orick Chamber of Commerce, and talk to a very nice lady who also has another business in town, and may answer the phone using that business name instead, causing you to think you have the wrong number. Orick is a VERY small town, literally just over 300 people and that includes all of the outlying areas. During the time I was there absolutely everyone who saw me knew right away I was not a local.
I pulled in, and quickly realized that the camp host was not around to ask about parking, so I just picked a pen for my horse and started to settle in. Eventually the host arrived, an affable fellow named Fred, he gave me a piece of paper with a list of rules, and I paid him for three nights.


Orick Rodeo Grounds.

Orick horse camp has 8 pens, but there are opportunities to accommodate more horses by putting up your own corral or panels.
There aren't really any specific sites, you just park wherever you want. There are water spigots and in one area I noticed some plug ins, so it is possible to have hookups, with an extra charge. I asked Fred if I could drink the water, and he looked skeptical, so I decided not to chance it. It is well water, and no one knows whether it has been tested anytime lately.
It is $10.00 per night per horse to camp, or a $5.00 fee for the day use area. There is a ramshackle shed that turned out to be the bathroom, it does have a flush toilet and sink and Fred has thoughtfully placed some reading materials inside. There is a wheelbarrow and an area to dump manure.

The biggest pen at Orick Rodeo Grounds.

Orick Horse Camp.

Although there were no other campers while I was there, there was some activity happening during the weekend. The rodeo grounds is the only access to the horse trails in the area, and there are two outfits that run horse rides for the tourists. They trailer the horses in when they have business, and take them back home afterwards. There were also some guys doing construction on a building that will eventually become a better bathroom, with showers etc. It might take a little while to complete, since it is being done by volunteers. Once it's done they will likely raise their camping rates.

One of the groups that do horse rides for tourists.

The following day I rode along the levee beside Redwood Creek to get to the trailhead. There is a map there showing various loops you can do, but instead of mileage they have described them in how many hours it will take you. Since everyone goes at a different pace, I wasn't sure what this meant so I picked a loop that was called the Overnight Loop and headed out. Later researching online I saw that this is also called the Elam Creek Loop and it is 20 miles. It took me 5 hours and 20 minutes and yet it is supposed to be much longer than the one they call the 6 hour loop, so perhaps it's best to take the descriptions as more of a guide for hikers, rather than on horseback. The longest ride you can do is a 32 mile loop and the shortest is 7 miles.

The map of the Orick Horse Trails.

As I rode up to a higher elevation  I was in the fog for awhile, which made it a somewhat mystical experience.

Fog in the Redwoods.

The first part of this trail has the best variety of Redwoods, there is even one you can put your highly tolerant pony into!

A pony in a tree.

Riding in the Redwoods.

After awhile the trail switchbacks downhill, and I ran into a couple of backpackers who exclaimed that they had seen no other humans in two days, and eventually I found myself at Elam Camp which is a backcountry overnight spot for packing in. There is an outhouse, water trough, and picnic tables.

The trails are clearly marked at all the junctions with the number of the trail and the corresponding color.

The outhouse at Elam Camp.

The trails are well marked.

Rhododendron on the Overnight Loop.

Riding through the Redwoods on the Overnight Loop.

Since I had done this long of a ride to start with, I realized there was no reason to do anymore of the shorter loops because I would be retracing most of my steps, except for a short section in the middle, so the following day I rode to the beach instead. I got back on the levee and followed it towards the ocean. It took about an hour to get there, you ride under Hwy 101 and past the town of Orick. I saw a fox, a bald eagle, and I also heard a number of coyotes start yipping after I had passed by a wooded area. The trick to riding on the beach is to know when the tide is out, otherwise you can't ride to the north. Redwood Creek runs into the ocean there, and it is too deep to cross, so I just rode on the small section of beach available to me ( since the tide was in) and then headed back.

The beach in Orick.

The levee beside Redwood Creek.

I wanted to keep riding so I headed back towards the Redwoods trailhead but veered off over by the creek and rode around just exploring for awhile. I came across a couple of strange contraptions in the water (I asked Fred later, and he said they are fish counters) they have a barrel in the middle that spins and my horse wasn't quite able to wrap her mind around it. After my soon to be 15 year old seasoned trail horse exhibited a lot of bug eyed, snorty behavior, we continued past it and then crossed the creek.

The oh so scary fish counter.

I found myself on a paved road that was going towards the Redwood Creek trailhead but it is a hiker only trail, so I turned around at that point.

After riding, I hung around camp for awhile chatting with Fred ( he is an interesting character) and then went for a walk on the levee.

I had a really enjoyable time and didn't really want to leave, but the next morning it was time to head back to Oregon. I planned to camp a couple of nights at Lake Selmac to extend my trip. This is a good place to stop, since it's right on the way, and it breaks up the amount of driving time. I found the horse camp at the end of a people campground called the Mallard Loop.

Lake Selmac is a county park in Selma OR with a resort beside the lake, and quite a number of campgrounds. Josephine County manages the camps and you need to get a hold of them, not the resort, for info or reservations.
The horse camp has 6 sites, 3 have 2 horse corrals, 2 have 3, and there is 1 with 4 corrals.
Site number 6 is actually the first site when you drive in and it is the only one with electric hookups.
This is not a loop, you drive straight in, and there is not a lot of room to turn around once you reach the end. If there had been people parked there I would probably have had to back out, but I had the place to myself. To make matters a little more interesting the ground was pretty wet and I had to be careful not to get stuck in the mud.
There are water spigots,with potable water, attached to the corrals at every site. There are also several garbage cans. There is no bathroom but the other campground is close by and they have a bathroom with showers. There is no manure bin and no pay station at the horse camp, which brings me to an interesting predicament I found myself in.

Lake Selmac Horse Camp.

Lake Selmac Horse Camp from afar.

Usually if there is no pay station it means someone will likely drive around at some point to collect money. But no one came by that night. At 6:45 the next morning, a parks guy drove in and then back out again. Later in the morning he came back, and asked if I had had a chance to pay yet. I asked him where I was supposed to do that, and he said I could put it into any of the other campground's drop boxes, I had seen those, but they had no information about horse camp prices on them. Then as I am standing there holding my checkbook he says "and we don't take checks". I have been horse camping for a lot of years, and have never once come across a place that doesn't accept checks.
I then asked him how much it was per night and he said $30.00. I must have looked a little shocked, since that is pretty high, and certainly higher than the other campgrounds in the park were charging.
He then told me I could go over to the store at the resort, and get cash from the ATM machine. So since I was just about to leave on my ride, I said I would do it later, he agreed, and as we parted company he even said he wouldn't charge me for my first night. I thanked him, and left to go riding.

I went over to the day use area where the trailhead is, and started to explore. I ended up riding along what is called the Long Cut Trail which climbs up the side of a hill and then turns into logging roads eventually, so I just followed those for awhile.

Riding on some old logging roads from the Long Cut Trail.

Coming back down, I then followed the Lake Trail which follows along one side of the lake and then spits you out into a boat launch area. I kept riding down the road and ended up on some more trails that led to logging roads on the other side of the lake. Nobody seems to care where you ride horses in the whole park, there were no horse free zones that I saw. In fact as I was heading across the parking lot at one point, a park host lady hollered at me to stop, and I thought maybe I wasn't supposed to be there, but it turns out she just wanted a picture. I got about 5 hours of riding in and then went back to camp.

Mountain views from the Long Cut Trail.

Lots of butterflies.

Lake Selmac.

More logging roads on the other side of Lake Selmac.

Later as I was getting my stuff together to walk to the store to get cash, the park ranger drove back in, but this time it was not the same guy, it was his wife, and she looked cranky. She started in on me about not paying, and I explained that I was on my way to do just that, but she just kept saying how I was supposed to have paid as soon as I got there etc.etc. Her husband had apparently failed to mention to her about the free night he had originally offered, AND about me paying after getting back from riding. She told me I owed $40.00 for the two nights, which is $20.00 a night, a different price than I was told earlier. I proceeded to walk to the store, and was informed by the sweet lady behind the counter that they did NOT have an ATM. I then had to walk back, unhook my truck and take a drive to town. So my thoughts are: if anyone reading this decides to camp there, either bring a giant wad of cash, (I still have no idea which price it actually is, but on reserve america it does say $20.00 ), or call ahead and reserve a spot, perhaps you can pay online or at least get some info beforehand. Sigh.

The next morning I just did a short ride on the remaining trails I had missed the day before. Some of them have some very steep sections.They are on a small mountain across a creek and the trails meander back and forth across this mountain, none of them really going anywhere, and a lot of them end completely, or turn into a trail with a different name. After about an hour of this I had ridden every trail, and decided to just head on home. Check out time was at noon, and clearly there was no way they were going to let me stay longer. That may have been the shortest ride I have ever done on my horse in the entire time I have owned her!

Lots of short trails to do, all clearly marked.

On the Mountain Top Trail.

Driving home I managed to get a half decent shot of Mt. Thielsen through my bug spattered windshield.

Mt Thielsen.




Until the next trip.....:)


GPS COORDINATES TO MILL CREEK HORSE TRAIL




Tuesday, April 19, 2016

Graham Corral Horse Camp, Deschutes National Forest, Oregon

Graham Corral is one of the horse camps in the Sisters area that can be accessed early in the season. The others are Sisters Cow Camp, and Sheep Springs which is over by Camp Sherman. Although I have never actually camped at Graham, since it is a short drive from my house, I have ridden there numerous times.

Fourmile Butte.

There are conflicting reports from various websites on when it officially opens, usually the beginning of May, but on Recreation.gov, they are accepting reservations after May 25th. However you can ride and camp there at any time of the year, just be prepared that there will not be water, or toilet paper etc. while it is closed.

Graham Corral Horse Camp.

A friend once called the ranger station early in the spring, to ask when he could camp there, and was told it was gated and locked, this is NOT true. There is not even a gate to lock. Also the directions on Recreation.gov and on the forest service website take you on a longer gravel road from Hwy 242, this is completely unnecessary, when you can simply drive Hwy 20 west from Sisters for 5 miles then take a left where it is clearly signed. At that point you will be on gravel for almost 3 miles, continue to follow signs to the camp. The last part of the road is well taken care of, but the first half is a potholed mess, the worst I have seen it in recent years, and you can really only go about 5 mph. (They grade this road periodically, so it just depends on when you happen to be there)

The camp has 13 sites, but only 4 have corrals. However there are four very large communal corrals in the middle, and they have water troughs.
Site #4 has steel corrals, but the rest are wood. There is a bathroom, and it is $16.00 per night. Update: After a long time without any, as of 2024 there is a 1000 gallon tank of non potable stock water. There is a manure bin, and they now have a separate dumpster for manure with a ramp and a wheelbarrow.
There isn't really a designated day use area and you are no longer allowed to park in the camp unless you are actually staying there.

Graham Corral Horse Camp.

To do the Fourmile Butte ride, leave the camp heading south on the Metolius Windigo Trail, the sign will say to Sisters Cow Camp and Three Creek Meadow. You stay on the Met Win for awhile and then veer off to do the loop. This ride is clearly signed at junctions and marked the entire way with white diamonds.
Just follow along and enjoy the ride through tall Ponderosa.

The Met Win sign.

This trail is clearly marked and signed.

When you get to the butte, there is a sign that someone thought was a good idea to shoot the heck out of, and it will point the way to the left which is to the top of the butte, the white diamonds will continue to the right and that's where you will go after checking out the fantastic views on top. Speaking of shooting, I would recommend doing this ride during the week if possible, to avoid men with guns who may be up there.


The top of Fourmile Butte. View of Mt. Washington.

The top of Fourmile Butte, View of Mt. Washington.

The top of Fourmile Butte.

The top of Fourmile Butte, view of Black Butte.

The road back down Fourmile Butte.


After continuing on the loop, you will eventually get back on the Met Win and it takes you back to camp. This is an easy 10 mile ride.


The Met Win has yellow diamonds, as well as these markers.

Heading back to camp on the Met Win.

To go to Gobblers Knob which is a very scenic short 4.5 mile ride, head north on the Met Win from camp and follow the yellow diamonds. At one point after crossing a road there is a "private property, keep out "sign which someone placed directly on the trail, just ignore this, and continue on, but make sure not to wander off the trail during this section, so you are not trespassing.

Not really applicable, since this is a public trail.

Riding past Glaze Meadow you will see Gobblers Knob in front of Black Butte.

You will pass Glaze Meadow and then there will be two water crossings, after the second one the Met Win continues to the right, but this is where you will take a left into a fenced area, and then an immediate right, to follow the trail that skirts along the base of Gobblers Knob. Ignore any side trails, stay on the main one until you see some colored horseshoes on trees and then keep left to climb to the top of the hill. There are great views from the top, this time of year the meadow down below is a little dry, although it will be much greener soon.

Second water crossing.

Head through this fence to get to Gobblers Knob.

Nice views of the Sisters and Glaze Meadow from Gobblers Knob.

Atop Gobblers Knob.

From here you can head back the way you came, or continue around the rest of the knob. There is another meadow on the other side you can visit, this is really pretty with a lot of aspens. Black Butte Ranch has a dude string and they use these trails for their rides, so you can also explore for awhile following all the hoof prints. It is their colored horseshoes on the trees that mark the various loops they do.

The meadow on the north side of Gobblers Knob.

These are the two most scenic rides from camp, however, you can also ride to Sisters Cow Camp which is 12.5 miles round trip, or you can cross Hwy 20 on the Met Win and ride alongside Black Butte for as long as you want. There are also a number of dirt roads that I have followed for a long time, just exploring.
If you feel like an adventure you could try to find Skylight Cave, it is on FS Rd.260. If you get there at the right time of day and want to go into the cave, you might luck out and see the sunlight shining through the skylight.

Skylight Cave.


Happy Trails!

GPS COORDINATES TO GRAHAM CORRAL