Saturday, March 20, 2021

Las Cienegas National Conservation Area (Empire Ranch) and Apache Springs, Arizona

This is a continuation of my six week trip to Arizona: After leaving Council Rocks:

Empire Ranch is a place that I had checked out on a previous trip to Arizona, without my horse, and so I always knew that I was going to add this area to my trip. I love the grasslands, and much prefer them to the dirt and cactus laden parts of Arizona.

Apache Springs Trailhead.

As you drive into this area the ranch headquarters are on a marked road off to the left, and that is where I went first, to get filled up with water. There is a bathroom, a potable water hydrant with a hose, and the old ranch house and outbuildings that you can take a self guided tour through.

After that I went back to the main road, which eventually comes to a T. There is a kiosk that you can stop and look at, with a map of the dispersed camping zones. You can drive either left or right and camping is mostly just anywhere except right close to the ranch headquarters. 

I went left and ended up camping at Oak Tree Canyon, which is a pretty nice spot, it even has a bathroom and another water hydrant, although that water is not currently potable. This is a wide open space with plenty of room for any sized rig, and it is free. As per usual there were quite a few RVers and one horse camper from Wisconsin, who came over to introduce herself. The only down side to this area was the stiff wind that picked up right around the same time every day.

Empire Ranch

Oak Tree Canyon camping area.

My camp spot at Oak Tree Canyon.

There are over 42,000 acres to explore, and so on my first day I rode up into the rolling hills and just meandered about checking out various areas, eventually reaching the fence line that borders state land. I rode out into the state land briefly, just to get a view, but there weren't any trails or roads to follow from there.

Even though the grasslands are not known for cactus, I did see a few of these.

Riding through the rolling hills at Empire Ranch.

Views of the Santa Rita's, where I would be camping next.

I decided to stay and do another ride the following day, this time I started riding towards the Mustang Mountains, but kept coming upon dead ends or fence lines with no gates, so finally I followed some power lines for awhile, came across a water hole, and then ended up in yet another camping area off of the main road.

Riding towards the Mustang Mountains.

An oasis.

At another side road with camping areas.

I cut this ride a little bit short, went back to camp, and then hiked over into Empire Gulch and then continued to the ranch headquarters. There is a short trail to follow along the creek, and then I did a quick tour of the ranch house.

Empire Gulch.

Inside the ranch house.

If anyone has ever heard of Kentucky Camp and thinks it is actually somewhere you can camp, at least with a horse, you would be mistaken, as was I.

Here's how this day went. I left around noon thinking I only needed to drive just a few miles back up the highway towards Sonoita, then about 6 more miles on gravel. I proceeded to follow the signs pointing towards Kentucky Camp. Right before the road heads up a very steep hill there are plenty of dispersed camping areas on the flat lands, and perhaps horse people do camp there, but everything was chock full of RVers, so I drove on up the hill to the road that goes to the camp. I quickly learned that it is gated and locked, so I then had to back my rig out of there and continue up the road, which became narrower and less trailer friendly, and I was still not finding any places to camp. Finally the road splits and turns into a jeep track. I needed to turn around, but I didn't really have anywhere that was big enough to do so. I spent some more time backing up, including over a cattle guard, with an occasional ATVer or other vehicle getting stuck behind me, there was no room for them to pass.... until I was FINALLY able to get the hell out of there.

This whole journey took quite a bit of time since the road is slow going, bumpy, potholed etc. I had a book that described riding from the Gardner Canyon Trailhead, so I figured I would try to camp there instead. I followed the exact directions, and had no more problems, but the trailhead is actually called Apache Springs. Sigh.

Once there I was surprised and relieved to find that the one and only camp spot at this trailhead was available. What was supposed to be only a 10 mile drive took nearly 3 hours. 
It is free to camp there, but there are no amenities, no bathroom, and no cell service, except for when I clambered up a small hill.
A nearby creek does have water, but it is not close enough to be convenient.

The Arizona Trail runs through this trailhead, so the next day I rode it back over towards Kentucky Camp.

Looking back over to my trailer from the Arizona Trail.

On the Arizona Trail.

Soaptree Yucca on the Arizona Trail.

Kentucky Camp is an old mining area with a few intact buildings, one of which is a cabin that can be rented. There is also a headquarters which can be used for gatherings, weddings, and what have you. There is a hydrant with a hose, a water trough and a couple of hitching rails. There was no one around at the time, but I saw an RV where a caretaker stays on site.

One of the outbuildings at Kentucky Camp.

I continued on the trail for awhile, running into a couple of ladies on horseback, who lived in the area and were coming back down.
This is grazing land and there were quite a few livestock water tanks along this route as it climbs up towards Melendrez Pass.
The book had a loop option using forest service roads but I would have been doing it backwards from how the author had described it, and none of the side roads out there were marked, so I just went back the same way.

That evening some less skittish javelina's wandered through camp, but it was getting too dark to get any photos.

Originally I was thinking about staying another day and riding the Arizona Trail the other direction, but I started thinking about how many days I had left for my trip, and didn't want to run low on time.

The Santa Rita Mountains, on the Arizona Trail.


Next stop, Catalina and Oracle State Parks.

To be continued....











3 comments:

  1. need a route for horse camps between Washington and Arizona please

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    Replies
    1. Let me know what you find. I too am looking and will share info that I have found.

      Jim

      Delete
  2. I stayed at Winnemucca Fairgrounds and then I dispersed camped at Scotty's Junction.

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